Most of the villages are on the northeast coast, between which wind narrow, steep roads that require slow and careful driving. The main road crossing the north from Volos to Zagora passes within a few minutes through the town of Anakassia, with its wonderful museum dedicated to the famous folk artist) from the island of Mytilini/Lesvos, Theophilos Hadzimihali (known as Theophilos) (1873-1934). The museum is open Mon-Fri 8am-2:30; free).
This odd character used to go around in costumes from the period of the Greek War of Independence (which began in 1821)-fustanella (short pleated skirt) and shoes with pom-poms (what the guards at Syntagma wear), painting frescoes on walls for money or food, or whatever was offered. It is said that he ran off to Pilio in 1894 after killing a Turk in Smyrna (in Asia Minor). (Right a work by Theophilos of hero Miltiadis Giataganas 1886)
He also liked to dress up as Alexander the Great . His paintings are described as 'naive, resembling the style in which children (or 'simple peasants') paint, and his themes also included scenes from Greek mythology.
The museum is in an 18th century mansion, with frescoes of scenes from the War of Independence on the first floor, and other paintings are scattered around Pilio in various places, especially in tavernas and kafenia.