The Mani Page 8

If you head north from Layia the road beyond Aghios Kyprianos skirts the east coast of the Mani, which is less windy and generally less un welcoming than the west coast (though some writers (like me) claim that it is more barren and harsher, with less beaches, less coastal plain, and the villages all up on hillsides) .

There are, however, wonderful views from the easter coast road of the coastline with its bays, occasional villages and ruins on mountain slopes. Kokkala (which means 'bones') is an appealing and sheltered inlet with a church by the water (which can be walked to in about 1 ½ hours from Layia), while Flomohori,quite a bit to the north, is a typical Maniot village with tall towers and, in this case, cypress trees.

The land is relatively fertile here on this uninhabited stretch of coastline, and the village has retained some population. Kotronas is a fishing port and small seaside resort on the edge of a bay. The east coast is also easy to get to from Areopoli, where you can drive across either either northeast to Vathy Bay (with a side road cutting couth to Skoutari) or to Kotronas, going southeast.

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